Eating Well

I don’t remember where this photo was taken, likely at the entrance to small shop, what caught my eye here was the offerings in front of the statue, especially the offerings of food.  Like so many other places we have travelled to as well as at home, food is front and centre.

In China, the central importance of food shows up not only in these offerings, but also in daily language.  Where a Canadian would say, “Hi.  How are you?” a Chinese person could say, “Hi.  Have you already eaten today? (nǐ chī le ma – 你吃了吗)”  If you are ever asked this question, the simplest and likely best response would be to say, “Yes, I have eaten. (chī guò le – 吃过了).

For us, as foreigners, we see the importance of food in terms of the gifts given to us by students and colleagues, especially with the approach of festivals such as the Mid-Autumn Festival (Zhōng qiū jié – 中秋节) also known as the Moon Festival.  The practice of giving moon cakes (yuèbǐng – 月饼) is the norm at that time of year.  Of course, we got more moon cakes than a person could possibly ever want to eat.  But as in the western world, it is the thought that counts.

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A Bit About Changzhou

Changzhou (常州) is more than a city (市 – shì) in Canadian terms.  It is a union of five administrative districts consisting of towns, villages and rural settings contains of about three and a half million people (rén – 人).  Changzhou city (Chángzhōushì – 常州市) itself has about two million people as official residents.  This picture which I took in September, 2006, features Changzhou’s City Hall (shìzhèngfǔ – 市政府), a tall modern structure of twin towers situated behind the People’s Square (rénmín guǎng chǎng – 人民广场).  City Hall is in the XinBei district (Xīnběiqū – 新北区) not too far from the apartment in which we live in Sunshine Gardens (YángGuāng HuāYuán – 阳光花园).

This is a scene from Yingchun Walking Street, a promenade that stretches for a few blocks paralleling the main street, Yanling XiLu.  With the development of many modern shops along the main street, Yingchun Walking Street has fallen into disrepair.  In a way, this makes for a different experience as locals with less money are more apt to shop on this promenade than in the main shopping mall of NanDaJie.  Often one can see small sidewalk enterprises selling anything from old coins to old fashioned fast food staples.

Next to the NanDaJie Shopping Centre is People’s Park (rénmín gōngyuán – 人民公园), a favourite place for many of the elders in the city to gather in order to play cards or to watch their grandchildren play.  Though not nearly as large as many of the parks in the city, it is definitely a park that is treasured.

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People Watching in Changzhou

After being in China for three weeks, in 2006, Maureen and I were feeling quite comfortable with wandering down streets we had not yet seen.  Rather than on focusing so much on the things we saw on our walks, we turned our focus to people, ordinary people.  We wandered down a street heading south of the main campus with a fellow FT carrying our cameras and taking photos of both people and places, but at the same time, making sure that we also made eye contact with the people we met along the way.  I will let the photos tell the rest of this story.

These are just some of the scenes we saw along the way.  A full copy of the married couple photo was printed out and given to them as were a few other photos I took during our walk.

In a recent e-mail I received from a colleague and friend who is a Chinese National, our friend comments:

Your impression of China, in some way, is very close to Chinese reality.  Every photo you put up shows the normal life of Chinese people, not like some other foreigners who just take pictures of the beautiful and good side of China.”

This is high praise indeed coming from a well-educated university professor who has spent his whole life in China.  These comments allow us to think that what we are sharing here in both photos and commentary, become more valuable to others who are considering taking a similar journey.

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A Home is Where the Heart Is

This older couple is one of many I found as I walked throughout Changzhou who seemed to be comfortable together.  The scene reaffirmed within me that it takes more than money to bring happiness into one’s life.  At home in Canada, I find too many people are caught up in upgrading their homes or the contents of their homes rather than appreciating that which they have that money can’t buy.  This is one concept that seems to cross cultural barriers, a universal concept.  As a stranger in a strange land, a laowai in China, it gives me a sense of comfort to see that some things are universal, especially relationships.  As the old expression goes: “Home is where the heart is.”

Somehow, all of us must navigate through transitions, through change, with some dignity.  It is better to keep busy and productive while waiting for change to make a place for us.  This woman is finding a way to rescue value from the process of change.  In a way, writing this blog (博客 – bókè) is my way of keeping busy while waiting for the change of returning to Changzhou, my way to get value from the process of waiting with dignity.  Soon, we will be leaving one home in Canada and moving into another home in Changzhou.  The constant is relationship.  We are making the move together and that is what makes the apartment waiting for us, a home.

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Contrasts – Behind the Walls

This is one of the homes that are found within the gated community called Sunshine Gardens (yáng guāng huā yuán – 阳光花园) where we lived during our first two years in China (Zhōng guó – 中国) and where we will again live when return to Changzhou (常州) in August of this year.  There is little doubt that the residents of this gated community were wealthy people (yǒu qián rén – 有钱人) in contrast with most Chinese citizens (Zhōng guó rén – 中国人).  Most of this wealth is hidden behind walls.  In the case of Sunshine Gardens, most of the wall was comprised of a row of apartment buildings along the north (běi – 北)  side, the walls of another gated community on the west (xī – 西) side, another gated community on the south (nán – 南) side, and a high fence almost hidden by trees and bushes along the east (dōng – 东).   As you might notice, I have given you the pinyin and characters for the four cardinal directions which often find their way onto street signs.

But, as you may well guess, this wealth is not the norm.

Poverty (pín kùn – 贫困) is also hidden behind walls within the cities.  I found this “home” hidden behind high billboard fences in the downtown area of Changzhou.  To be honest, this level of poverty was not the norm either.  For most residents of the city, home was simple, comfortable and more often than not, an apartment.

Some of the more modest homes of the middle class (zhōng chǎn – 中产) are found behind walls that are made of brick and cement with openings called moongates.  These gates lead to either individual homes or more typically, a row or two of row housing from an earlier period of the city’s history.

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You Are Never Too Old to Work

The first September in Changzhou, we got to see how a group of women would take their small scythe-like tools in order to cut grass.  This group of women were cutting the grass on the grounds of the Changzhou Software building which was home for Google and a few other enterprises.  I guess the best thing I could say about this process is that it keeps a lot of people busy and earning money.  I am sure the grass gets sold to feed local livestock as an additional source of income.

The older woman was busy planting a new crop in her small market garden on the land that surrounds the little lake near the C.I.T. Xinbei campus.  Her garden was a decent size, larger than some of the many such gardens in the area.  Many of these gardeners are apartment owners in the area who use the income from their gardens to make life just a bit easier.  Some do this gardening out of habit after years of need had cultivated a strong work ethic.  One needs to feel useful and contributing in all kinds of ways.

But not all find a useful way to spend their time in their senior years.  Some turn to passive begging.  Fortunately we didn’t see much of this in Changzhou.  Most found some way to earn their few jiao 角 and yuan 元 without having to resort to begging (qǐ tǎo – 乞讨).  Most people we saw had a high level of pride (自尊 – zì zūn) in themselves.

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Discovering Confidence in a Strange Land

With the passage of a few weeks in Changzhou and classes beginning to settle into some sort of routine, we found that we had a bit more time for wandering around the city.  Remembering our first journey to the city centre (市中心 – shì zhōng xīn), we decided to make the journey on our own using the city transit system.  We had a few city maps given to us by the F.A.O. staff that we used to discover which buses would take us downtown (市中心 – shì zhōng xīn) and which one’s would then take us back to our home in Sunshine Gardens (阳光花园 – yáng guāng huā yuán)!  Riding the bus, we recognised the Christian church and realised that we needed to get off at the next bus stop.

We walked back to the park fronting the church and found a huge display of stone that had been crafted into amazing pieces of art.  A few of them are in the photo above.  Besides spending a few hours viewing the efforts of true artists, we decided to find a restaurant (饭店 – fàn diàn) before heading back to the apartment.  We looked for the restaurant in the photo, one we had visited with our Chinese colleagues and co-teachers.  We did find other restaurants in the Nandajie Shopping Centre (南大街 – nán dà jiē) which in the end made us feel more like adventurers.  So, proud of our ability to fly on our own, we claimed the city of Changzhou as our own.

We returned to our apartment filled with a sense of comfort that we could do anything in China with the proper attitude.  With that, we began planning our ventures beyond the borders of the city.

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The Land of Silly

One of the greatest treasures that we took home from our first two years in China was the ability to laugh.  Looking at life in China from the viewpoints of outsiders, there was so much that brought us laughter just as this scene did during our first two weeks in Changzhou in 2006.  For us, this was part of our answer to feeling more comfortable with a culture that was so different and for our longing for the familiarity of home, family and friends.  For us and for many other expats, China became the land of the great silly.  For the local people, these scenes were part of normal life, a life that would be missed when and if life offered them the opportunity to live and work in the foreign western world.

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Pointless Productivity, or Life?

When we were in Changzhou, there was a lot of demolition activity and an unbelievable amount of new construction.  It seemed as though Changzhou was in a race to become a modern, cosmopolitan centre.  It seemed that everywhere one went, large trucks hauling away dirt and debris went whizzing by.  Of course, some of the debris would fall off the heavily loaded trucks.  It was then the task of street workers to clean up this debris.

In this photo, these two elderly women make the most of their day while working together.  It didn’t seem to bother them that moments after scraping the mud off the street and sweeping it up, another set of trucks would spill more mud forcing them to repeat the process over and over again, day after day until that particular stretch of road stopped being a hauling road.  It is work, and work is good.  In the end, it seemed that keeping busy and earning money to support family is all that becomes important.  It didn’t matter that the task might appear hopeless or pointless to some outside observer.   An outside observer such as myself judges from a different frame of reference.  We all see and interpret the world from unique and individual lenses.

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There Are Stories Behind The Faces

This is a look at some of our first students.  Somehow, we both got to teach this group of students.  I taught them History and Maureen taught them Conversational English.  I guess you could say that they are typical second year students.  They have learned the ropes of being university students and are more focused than the freshmen coming to the university.  That said, they aren’t yet tired of being students like the seniors who are much more serious.

In this collection of students, we found extroverts and introverts just as we would have found in a Canadian classroom.  Some of these students decided to take us under their wings by being our guides.  They acted as interpreters as we discovered places to get haircuts and for shopping experiences.  One of the male students, a serious but good-natured young man, left partway through our second year at C.I.T. in order to join the military.  Another young man in this class has an incredible voice and stage presence with the appropriate following of fans.  His university years provided him with an opportunity to be on stage as well as prepare for a career in international trade.  The stories are endless from this one class, stories we are still able to follow as the connections made continue to thrive.

Teaching ESL in China is more than about the topic or the task.  Teaching ESL is about opening doors between people, learning about others and about oneself, having others learn about you.  What is a bonus is that one gets paid for this experience.  Try it.

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